Day 1 in Kazbegi

Bus from Didube Metro Station to Kazbegi for 10 lari. The weather rolled in and it started to snow. Visibility was less than 50m. The windows fogged up. We went over a mountain pass. The roads were narrow. Beyond the road’s wooden palings were steep drops to the gorges below. We bumped along. The fences were replaced by head-height snow drifts. Two and a half hours after leaving Tbilisi we descended into Kazbegi (Stephansminda). Kazbegi is known for its skiing, its icecapped volcano and a 14th century monastery. It is home to an alpine ecology research institute. It is also right near the Russian border. We stayed at a guesthouse run by an old friendly lady. There was a picture of Stalin on the wall and a Russian army coat with polished buttons. There were no cafes or restaurants open because it was out of tourist season. A neighbour cooked us soups and stews with fried potatoes, fresh bread and cheese in a small room heated by a stove. Spanish tele-novellas dubbed in Georgian played constantly on the television. Outside chickens of Easter Show prize-winning standards scratched in the mud, dogs and cats bolted at the first sign of human movement and unpolled cattle roamed in the streets.

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4 Responses to Day 1 in Kazbegi

  1. Katie says:

    Cows in the street – awesome!

    Will you be visiting the fourteenth century monastery, by any chance?

    • Bathmat says:

      Yes. Alas the usual restrictions applied – no bare heads, no trousers and no photographs.

      • Flit says:

        Do you have to cart a skirt around with you then? Or just pretend your shirt is a dress like that purple target thing we got you to try on?

      • Bathmat says:

        I think the churches would melt if they came in contact with the puffle ‘dress’. Always best to carry a wrap around skirt or shawl with you just in case but often they have spares by the door.

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